There are a number of techniques out there for modelling rivets, and I've tried most over the years: dabs of PVA glue, modelling them out of green stuff... these techniques always look a bit meh and take me an age to do. So I was looking for a short cut.
Zinge Industries also sell a couple of different types of resin rivets. I got myself some of these:
They are attacked to flexible strips of plastic and do look good, but they're no good for adding to the boarding shields unfortunately. Great for barrels, not so good for shields.
So, back to scouring the web for me...
Then I came across these from Archer Fine Transfers. They're a military modelling company and these sheets of rivets are designed for tanks and things. They are essentially 3D resin rivets on decal backing paper, so you apply them exactly the same way you would with decal/transfers.
I just used the same method I described in an earlier post, using micro sol to dissolve the backing.
Personally I think they look great and I have been sticking them on everything! So easy, I did 10 boarding shields in 20 minutes, plus a couple of other guys...
As you can see, I applied the transfer before I painted the model, but you don't have to. Those military model guys just apply them over the tope and leave the rivet black.
But the proof is in the painting test: are the rivets pronounced enough to allow them to show up when you paint them? So yesterday I painted one of the shields up and here's the result:
I dunno about you guys, but that looks good enough for me, and with the ease of use, I can't recommend these highly enough! And there are so many on a sheet that they'll keep you going for a while.
Anyway, I'm happy so I thought I'd share these with you.
theerrantwolf.blogspot.co.uk - a blog dedicated to The Horus Heresy and Warhammer 40k